How To Prune or Trim Tomatoes
The first thing to remember when pruning your tomatoes is to always do it on dry days to avoid potential fungus attacks.
Use clean cutting tools that have been sterilized with peroxide ahead of time, in order to avoid contamination.
Remove all suckers (the little shoots that grow out of the join between the stem and the branch) except the first one. This is allowed to develop into a second stem, which is tied to the stake like the first one. Other suckers should be allowed to grow 6 inches long before they are cut off with a sharp knife. To limit the height of the plant, pinch back the top when it reaches the desired height. By removing the suckers and keeping the foliage under control your tomatoes will set a later crop of larger fruit.
If you want to start extra tomatoes, you can wait until these suckers have grown larger and then cut them off to start new tomato plants! Those little nodules on the stems of the suckers are where new roots will start to grow once you put them into water.
Use clean cutting tools that have been sterilized with peroxide ahead of time, in order to avoid contamination.
Remove all suckers (the little shoots that grow out of the join between the stem and the branch) except the first one. This is allowed to develop into a second stem, which is tied to the stake like the first one. Other suckers should be allowed to grow 6 inches long before they are cut off with a sharp knife. To limit the height of the plant, pinch back the top when it reaches the desired height. By removing the suckers and keeping the foliage under control your tomatoes will set a later crop of larger fruit.
If you want to start extra tomatoes, you can wait until these suckers have grown larger and then cut them off to start new tomato plants! Those little nodules on the stems of the suckers are where new roots will start to grow once you put them into water.
How To Stake Tomatoes
There are basically two main types of tomato plants - determinate and indeterminate.
Indeterminate vines continue to grow and produce fruit until killed by frost. They need to be staked or trellised for best production.
Drive a 5' stake into the ground alongside each planting spot. Plant seedlings deeply so that they send out side roots from the stem. This will help to anchor the plant as well as to feed it. Tie the plant to the stake with soft yarn or strips of cotton cloth by placing the cloth underneath a leaf node (where the leaf joins the main stem) and securing it loosely to the stake. This also helps prevent injury to the tomato plant during rapid growing, where heavy fruit can break the stems.
If your tomatoes are the kind that require staking, be sure to pinch out the side shoots so that the plant produces only 2 main stems which are tied to the stake.
Determinate Bush Tomatoes are varieties of tomatoes that normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. These types do not need staking, but some kind of support (cages or netting) is useful to keep plants from sprawling on wet ground. The "suckers" are not normally removed, though some trimming helps air circulation. If you remove some of the flowers, you will get larger-sized fruit.
Indeterminate vines continue to grow and produce fruit until killed by frost. They need to be staked or trellised for best production.
Drive a 5' stake into the ground alongside each planting spot. Plant seedlings deeply so that they send out side roots from the stem. This will help to anchor the plant as well as to feed it. Tie the plant to the stake with soft yarn or strips of cotton cloth by placing the cloth underneath a leaf node (where the leaf joins the main stem) and securing it loosely to the stake. This also helps prevent injury to the tomato plant during rapid growing, where heavy fruit can break the stems.
If your tomatoes are the kind that require staking, be sure to pinch out the side shoots so that the plant produces only 2 main stems which are tied to the stake.
Determinate Bush Tomatoes are varieties of tomatoes that normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. These types do not need staking, but some kind of support (cages or netting) is useful to keep plants from sprawling on wet ground. The "suckers" are not normally removed, though some trimming helps air circulation. If you remove some of the flowers, you will get larger-sized fruit.
Recommended Products
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Tomato Cages, Set of 4 Hinged tomato cages mean no more staking. These heavy-duty galvanized steel cages are strong enough to support full-grown vines loaded with tomatoes. You can even stack one cage on top of another to support the tallest tomato plants. |
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Green Tomato Ladders, Set of 3 Heavy Duty Tomato Ladders Hold up to 100 Pounds! Unquestionably the toughest, best-made plant supports we've ever used, these heavy-duty plant stakes let you maximize your growing space and minimize your problems with pests and disease. Unlike regular stakes or poles, they have eight cross-braces. |
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Green Tomato Ladder Extensions, Set of 3 You asked us for taller tomato ladders and here they are! Each of these Ladder Extensions will add a full 30" to your existing Tomato Ladder for an installed height of almost 6-1/2 feet (77"). Trying our Tomato Ladders for the first time? If your tomato plants often grow more than 4 feet tall, buy an Extension along with a Ladder to ensure even your tallest plants get plenty of support. Handy extensions for our Tomato Ladders (sold separately) support tall plants. Note: Extension goes into the ground first; Ladder fits on top Extension. |
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Garden Croquet Stakes, Set of 2 These colorful wooden garden stakes were inspired by a vintage croquet set. Our new and improved versions stand 24" tall for supporting plants, marking planting rows or just for fun. Colorful, functional garden stakes. We recommend Greentwist Garden Twine, sold separately. Built-in grooves hold twine in place. Set of 2 stakes. Painted fir 1" diameter x 24" H. |
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Rainbow Spiral Supports, Set of 5 These five-foot tall rainbow spirals provide sturdy support for your plants as they grow. Simply push them into the ground at the base of a tomato plant or flowering vine. The smooth steel arcs support at every turn. Excellent space-savers, as they encourage vertical growth while ensuring good light exposure and easy picking. |
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Flip and Snip Here's a handy flower shear and pruner in one tool . Snip, it's a flower shear; flip, it's a pruner that cuts branches and stems up to a half-inch in diameter. Handy for dead-heading and harvesting flowers and pruning small branches. Rubber grip handles. Steel and Teflon with green and black rubber grips. 8" long with 1-1/2" blades. |
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Powergear Pruners These ergonomic handheld pruners are lighter than most but handle big jobs easily thanks to the powergear mechanism. The handles rotate as you squeeze, following your hands natural movement and reducing the impact on your hands and wrists. Rotating handle and powergear mechanism. High carbon blades cut up to 3/4" branches. Ergonomic design approved by the Arthritis Foundation. Recommended for right-hand use only. |
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Felco No. 2 Pruner Once you make your first cut, you'll know why Felco pruners are the standard by which all others are measured. this precision pruner is available in two models: Classic No. 2 is the all-purpose garden workhorse. No. 6 is 1-1/4" shorter to suit smaller hands. Loaded with professional features like a sap groove, a wire-cutting notch, and a non-corroding spring mechanism. Cushioned shock absorber prevents wrist fatigue. Blades are precision-ground, hardened steel. All parts are replaceable. For right-handed use only. Adjustment key to align blades is included. Cuts branches up to 1" in diameter. Made in Switzerland |
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Felco Pruner Holster This item is a great companion to the Felco Pruners. Accessible clip on the back of the holster makes it incredibly easy to keep your pruners handy! Holster is designed to fit all Felco Pruners Thick, durable leather 6-1/2" L x 3" W. |








